Christmas traditions in Provence

Christmas traditions in Provence

The Provençal Christmas Traditions

Provençal Christmas traditions are a real ceremony! The festivities usually begin on December 4th, which marks Saint Barbara's Day. On this day, wheat and lentil seeds are sown in three small saucers, symbolizing a prosperous year for the family and the upcoming harvest, if a healthy sprout appears by Christmas Day.

"Quand lou blad vèn bèn, tout vèn bèn" which means in Provençal "When wheat is good, everything is good"


The Provençal Nativity Scene and the Santons

The nativity scene is at the heart of Christmas celebrations in Provence. But here, it is not limited to the Nativity scene itself. The santons, these handmade clay figurines, represent the people of the Provençal village: the baker, the fisherman, the laundress, and the "ravi," an iconic character who embodies naive joy.

Small santon crèches can be found everywhere in villages, churches, and homes, and have become a true tradition since the French Revolution. In fact, it was the banning of live nativity scenes during this period that gave birth to the tradition of creating small crèches in every home with painted clay figurines representing the villagers making their way to the live nativity scene celebrated in the church. These little figures are called "Santoun" in Provençal, meaning "little saint". Today, it is a true local craft that can be found at Christmas markets in Provence.

Families begin setting up their crèche in early December, and it remains in place until Candlemas. The baby Jesus is placed in the crèche on the night of December 24th to 25th.

To deepen your knowledge of the santons, we invite you to read our article dedicated to the Santons of Provence.

 

Midnight Mass

Midnight Mass is an important tradition in Provence, marking the climax of Christmas celebrations. It takes place on the evening of December 24th, at midnight, and attracts crowds who come to celebrate the Nativity in an atmosphere of solemnity and fervor.

In Provence, this mass often takes on a special turn. Locals attend in traditional attire, and some participate in the pastrage ritual, a symbolic moment when figures from the nativity scene, such as shepherds or village characters, are brought to the church to offer local products to the Baby Jesus. The mass is accompanied by traditional carols, including the famous "noëls provençaux", performed with traditional instruments such as the galoubet and the tambourine.

This religious event is also an opportunity for the community to gather, share the joy of Christmas, and strengthen bonds between the residents. It is a moment of unity and reflection, at the heart of Provençal traditions.

 

Christmas Dinner

The Christmas meal in Provence, known as the gros souper (big supper), is a true celebration of tradition and sharing. This feast, which takes place before Midnight Mass, is distinguished by its simplicity filled with symbolism. Made up of seven lean dishes in reference to the seven sorrows of the Virgin Mary, it highlights local products such as seasonal vegetables, fish, and olive oil. The table, carefully set with three white tablecloths and three candlesticks, remains in place after the meal to welcome the 13 desserts, a must-have during the festivities. These various sweets celebrate abundance and spirituality, while bringing guests together around a shared culture.

 

The 13 desserts

After returning from Midnight Mass, it is time for the famous 13 Desserts of Provence, which represent the Last Supper, the meal Jesus shared with his twelve apostles before the subsequent misfortunes. The number thirteen is still considered unlucky at the table today. In these thirteen desserts, you’ll find Provençal flavors such as quince, candied fruits, almonds, nougat... They remain on the table for three days following Christmas, corresponding to the three days between Christ’s death and resurrection.

Among the essentials, you will find:

  • "La pompe à l’huile": a brioche bread delicately flavored with olive oil and orange blossom, which must be broken by hand, according to tradition.
  • "Les mendiants": four dried fruits symbolizing religious orders, with walnuts (or hazelnuts) for the Augustinians, figs for the Franciscans, almonds for the Carmelites, and raisins for the Dominicans.
  • "Nougat", white and black: representing good and evil.
  • Fresh fruits: such as mandarins, oranges, pears, or grapes, adding a touch of freshness.
  • Local sweets: calissons from Aix, fruit pastes, or dates, often stuffed with almond paste for an even more festive touch.

Each family can personalize its selection, but the overall set must always be generous and varied. The 13 desserts, which sometimes vary slightly by village, are arranged together on the table and shared in a spirit of conviviality. This tradition celebrates both the abundance of Provençal products and religious symbolism, while offering a moment of sweetness after the big supper.

 

The Yule Log

Among the Christmas traditions, the Yule log holds a special place, both in people's hearts and on festive tables.

The Yule Log (in french: bûche de Noël) is an iconic dessert of the holiday season, enjoyed in Provence as well as elsewhere. Its shape recalls a real log of wood, referencing ancient pagan traditions where a large log was burned in the fireplace to ensure prosperity and protection for the home in the coming year.

Today, this symbol has been reinterpreted as a rolled cake, often filled with buttercream, mousse, or ganache, and decorated to resemble tree bark. In Provence, lighter and more fragrant variations can also be found, made with fruits such as citrus or flavors of chestnuts and marrons, paying tribute to local products. Whether traditional or modern, the Yule Log concludes the Christmas meal on a sweet and festive note, combining conviviality and indulgence.

 

Come experience Christmas in Provence!

The Christmas traditions in Provence offer a true immersion in the authenticity and warmth of the region. Extend the magic by exploring our holiday villa rentals, perfect for an authentic stay with family or friends at the foot of Mont Ventoux. 🏡✨